The Valley of ruins

Fortress of Sacsayhuaman

The best known of these ruins is the megalithic fortress of Sacsayhuaman – a bold example of Inca architectural skills. Constructed from massive stones – including one that weighs 125 tons – this military complex overlooking the city of Cuzco has a double wall in zigzag shape. It also marks the birthplace of the river that runs under Cuzco, channeled through stone conduits honed by the ancient Incas, invisibly supplying the city with water.

Archeologists estimate that tens of thousands of workers labored on this massive structure for more than seven decades, hauling the immense stone blocks that make up its double outside walls and erecting the near indestructible buildings that made the complex one of the most wondrous in all the empire. Inti Raymi, the Inca feast of the winter solstice is celebrated every year on June 24 at Sacsayhuaman with a procession, ceremony and much merry making.

Qenko

Less that 7km away is Qenko – an Inca shrine with architectural features that include a 5-meter high stone block that cuzquenos claim looks like a puma. Its name means labyrinth, and this ceremonial center dedicated to the worship of the mother earth, includes water canals cut into solid rock and a subterranean room.

Puca Pucara

Further along the road to Pisac is a smaller fortress – Puca Pucara, believed to have guarded the road and the Sacred Valley of the Incas. It has hillside terraces, stairways, tunnels and towers.

Tambo Machay

To the north is tambo Machay – sacred bathing place of the Inca rules and their royal women. A hydraulic engineering marvel its aqueduct system still feeds water into a series of showers.

Pisac

From there you head down some 40 meters into the valley on the curvy road leading to Pisac – a friendly village known for its fishing, Sunday market and the ruins above the town. To reach the ruins, climb past the mountainside terraces. It is a high –altitude hike that may leave you winded and your heart pounding. The stones in Pisac’s buildings are smaller that hose at Sacsayhuaman, but the precision with which they are cut and fit will amaze you as will the lovely view.

Ollantaytambo

If you plan to do a full circuit of the valley, continue to the great fortress of Ollantaytambo, 72 km from Cuzco. This elegant and intricate granite complex has temples, baths and impressive military installations.

El Truco

Back in Cuzco, bargains are of offer from street artisans, but their sales techniques can sometimes be a little too persistent. In the evenings the sound of highland music can be heard, wafting out of restaurants all over the city.

One of the finest floor shows is at El Truco where the pisco sours pack a punch and the musicians and dancers are first rate. Eating a place of anticuchos – a shish kebab of beef heart and watching the performers in their traditional clothing, singing in Quechua and playing reed flutes, makes you forget temporarily that the Incas lost their showdown with the Spanish.